How to grow pansies & violas in the garden or containers

—

Transplanting pansies & violas into the garden or containers

Pansies and violas can withstand light frost even when they are young, so they can be transplanted out a few weeks before most other seedlings in the spring. They are typically ready when they are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) tall and have developed at least four true leaves. You may need to take care in protecting them from harsh winds, though, depending on your climate. A good wind is more likely to kill off tender, young plants than frigid temperatures and frost.

Soil should be allowed time to settle naturally before planting, which is why soil prep in winter is so important. (It is equally important to pat down the soil firmly before sowing seeds directly into the garden.) Over and above that, you can add some manure a week prior and sprinkle 2 ounces (55 g) of bonemeal per square yard (m) just before transplanting to assist the seedlings’ first flush. To help prevent transplant shock, add some of the same seed-starting soil to the prepared bed or pot where the seedlings will be taking up new residence.

When transplanting pansies and violas, do not use a dibber, as their roots should never be constricted. If you are unfamiliar with a dibber, it is a pointed hand tool used for making holes when planting out bulbs and seedlings. Although it is a wonderful tool, you will want to use a hand shovel, or trowel, for pansies. Try to disturb the roots as little as possible when lifting the seedings from the seed trays. My preferred method is to use a landscape staple in a manner similar to chopsticks, which causes very little disturbance. Another popular tool among growers for this step is a butter knife.

Should you be a bit behind in planting out—which has happened to me on more than one occasion—be sure to remove any buds or flowers you find before transitioning the seedlings into the ground. As painful as this is to do, it is so important that all their energy go to their roots at this time. Spacing is a matter of preference, but I recommend planting them no more than 4 inches (10 cm) apart when growing for cut flowers and 9 to 12 inches (23 to 30 cm) apart when growing in landscaping.

Pansies can endure some shade, which is also beneficial in keeping the soil cool and moist, but they bloom most beautifully with at least six full hours of sun every day. The best way to achieve cool moisture at their root base is through regular slow, deep watering.

While the greatest threat to tender seedlings is inadequate watering, slugs and snails are a close second. As soon as you transplant your seedlings out, you will need to treat for these insatiable garden residents or your entire crop could be lost in just one night.

When transplanting seedlings into pots or other containers, the same general rules apply. The soil needs to provide both ample water retention and adequate drainage. I have learned the best mix for pots is two parts good soil, one part leaf mold, one partmanure, and just enough sharp sand to keep the mix porous. Alternatively, pansies can be sown directly into the pots you intend to keep them in. I do this with my terra-cotta pots, as it saves me from having to disturb their roots while transplanting.It is even more crucial to regularly water pansies and violas in pots than in beds, and the pots must never dry out. If you are using a terra-cotta pot, always water the pot along with the plant, as the pot itself absorbs a lot of moisture. Pot-raised pansies and violas can still be grown for long stems. Trellises are an option, as the plants will climb upward with some support. If you want your plants to be fuller rather than trailing, continue to cut them back as they lengthen, and they will instinctively send out new basal shoots.